Natural sweet wines : between myth and reality

The natural sweet wines (V.D.N) of southern France are exceptional products. However, marketing by growers is difficult.

Historic

“It was incomprehensible! In my time, the cellars were not looking for new customers thinking the V.D.N always sell … “.
These were the words of Etienne, retired winemaker.

The Pyrenees-Orientales enjoy a Mediterranean climate for growing vines. Of their history and their cross-border location with Spain, they have kept a strong Catalan identity. They struggle to transcribe within the local economy. If wine production is very varied (red, rosé, white etc.), natural sweet wines occupy a special place.

Officially recognized by the law in 1872, they receive the A.O.C label in 1936. Riches, stable and unique, they are made from a so-called fortification technique. The V.D.N made the prosperity of the Pyrenees-Orientales and sales in the 60’s stopped. New “trends” drinks, the refusal to anticipate market developments but also the lack of investors participated in this decline.

Now new producers are trying to reclaim that heritage. Anxious to improve the quality and image of V.D.N, winemakers are developing a an exceptional product in accordance with the consumer expectations. The older vintages have become the spearhead of production but the lack of consistency between the price and the choice of distribution channels show a febrile profitability.

Sales

During my visit to “Aux vins 4 canons”, a Rivesaltes 1931 (240 euros) attracted my attention. I wondered who could in Perpignan invest so much in a unknown wine and how many bottles were sold. Julien, the seller, answered:
“I opened a bottle at home for Christmas … But you know the price is very relative. This kind of wine stay many years in barrels and it represents an asset for the grower. The equipment, the packaging… A lot of money is spent. Considering the cost, this price is ridiculous.”

Winemaker is talking

The idea that production costs were not covered shocked me. Then, I decided to interview a producer.

At Latour de France, the Verdaguer family leads the field of Rancy. Among the wines sold, a wide range of red wines bio and V.D.N. A special care is taken to the production who sleeps in real oak barrels. If Rancy was often rewarded, things were not always as simple as explained Brigitte Verdaguer:

“In 1989, when we started with my husband, the V.D.N were sold in bulk everywhere. I immediately felt it would be a great idea to sell it in bottle. We worked hard to improve the production. It was difficult to convince banks to follow us financially. They answered we were alone. So we went on the road with our first vintage, a 1950. A failure because nobody knew it but we never gave up. After 30 years of effort, it was finally the recognition through competitions and guide Hachette. “

To the question of cost prices, Brigitte replied that it is extremely difficult to evaluate the amount of work and energy into this project. It was really too much. All the elements together so far converge towards my idea that V.D.N are underestimated.

Wine industry

All the elements together so far converge towards my idea that V.D.N are underestimated. Maybe their history would give me elements. To learn more, I decided to go to the Interprofessional Committee of the Wines of Roussillon (C.I.V.R) whose role is to support various actors in the wine industry.

Cheap drinks

On this occasion, I met two officials who gave me some leads. They entrusted me that at the 20th beginning, V.D.N often fueled the production of cheap drinks distributed under the name of prominent industry brands.

A change in tastes

Tastes changed with the new generations and sales collapsed mid 60s. Other French wine like Bordeaux or Bourgogne had been able to attract major investors, while this department had lived on its achievements. Without external inputs to inject large sums into new marketing methods, the die was scraping.

A segmented market

Although the profession is interested in the new V.D.N, the production volume remains quite low and the market is segmented.

Clarisse Martin – responsible for statistics speaks about it:
“The older vintages are undervalued. They should position themselves as spirits and be distributed on more specific circuits that would value the advantage. ”
Xavier Hardy in charge of training and communication said :
“VDN have become a product of exception which Catalan should be proud. It is no longer a simple aperitif but now you can drink it with various dishes. Shame not find more on our tables … “.